Seasonal Cooking: A Framework

Seasonal cooking — building menus around what's best in the market rather than what a recipe calls for — is both the most economical and the most flavor-forward approach to home cooking.

The seasonal framework doesn't require memorizing what's in season. It requires a different shopping approach: go to the market without a fixed menu and see what looks exceptional. Whatever the farmers have piled highest and priced lowest is likely what's in peak season locally.

Spring: asparagus, peas, fava beans, spring onions, watercress, new potatoes. Light techniques — briefly cooked, butter sauces, raw preparations.

Summer: tomatoes, corn, zucchini, stone fruit, eggplant, peppers, fresh beans. High-heat roasting, raw applications, cold preparations for hot days.

Fall: winter squash, brassicas (broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts), apples, pears, mushrooms, root vegetables beginning to appear. Roasting, braising, spiced applications.

Winter: stored root vegetables, dried legumes, hardy greens (kale, chard), citrus arriving from warmer climates. Long-cooked soups, braises, comforting preparations that transform patient cooking into extraordinary food.

The payoff of seasonal cooking: the best version of any ingredient is its seasonal version. A summer tomato in August and a hydroponic tomato in February are not the same ingredient.